We sat drinking last night with a polish girl called Olga and we were explaining how we were taking things slow and enjoying the culture and drink that Spain has to offer. She was one of those cycling pilgrims who would knock out 100km a day. I think the slow pace appealed because she decided to join us on our 23km walk today. 

We started on a coastal path that a dirt bike would have struggled with so we were a bit worried that she might not actually join us, but she had immediately cheated and we bumped in to her up ahead. 

The first part of the journey was the most spectacular but also the hardest. The ups and downs of the Spanish coast really came in to play here and I was immediately knackered. I realised that there comes a point where you could be standing in front of the most beautiful landscape in the world, a rainbow could be overhead in front of a gorgeous sunrise with eagles floating gentle on the breeze, and you don’t give a fuck because you’re hot as balls, your backpack is a bastard and your feet are swollen. 

Bad news when you’ve only been walking for about 10 minutes.

Anyway, as we were descending into the next town we had the usual click clack of our 6 sticks hitting the ground but this time, combined with Olga’s click clicking of her bike sprocket, we sounded like the intro to a drum and bass song. I made at least 4 songs in my head before I got bored and started hitting conkers with my walking poles. 

Speaking of walking poles, Olga seemed to be enjoying herself.

She occasionally jumped on her bike and shot past me just to, I assume, make sure I knew how slow I was. Her bike fell over a few times so I just remembered that every time she shot past.  

First stop was a nice little cafe after the 4km coastal walk. We were all in need of some coffee and a bit of grub. I smashed a chorizo tortilla bocadilo and some pastry thing all washed down with the biggest coffee my Spanish vocabulary would allow. We then carried along a countryside road walk. 

Oh, a little bit of Jenny news for you all. It turns out that she is like catnip for horses. These guys couldn’t get enough of her.

Next stop was a quick one where a Spanish man offered us some ice cold water. That was a welcome treat to a pilgrim with about half the amount of water in his body that he should have.

The stop after that was a bench next to a church in the shade of a lovely big tree. We had a little cat friend join us for a bit. It didn’t like peanuts but loved yoghurt. 

I had another animal encounter with a friendly pooch further along which made my day that little bit better.

I then found this little hut.

One of the things I like to amuse myself with is scaring Jenny a bit. I find a nice, loud evil laugh at the right moment makes her jump. I hid inside the hut and waited for her to walk past then blasted out a lung hurting one.

This made my day a little bit better too. 

We finally made it to the hostel after a rather difficult walk. Put it this way, Olga is back on the bike tomorrow. In her words “one day was enough, I want to be back on my bike” 

I’m pretty sure she would cuddle it in her bed if she was allowed! 

I take solace in the fact that, for one day at least, we converted a fully functional pilgrim into a rubbish one like us.

We treated ourselves to a dinner out. Tapas, beer and wine. We ended the courses with 7 different cheeses to share. One of them was a blue cheese that was so strong I’m pretty sure it burnt a hole through my tongue. It was rather nice though! 

We also had cider again. This time it was being poured for us by the waiters. Again, I’m sure they are winding me up, how is this a thing? 

Today was Bea last day on the Camino again. I’m actually gutted about it. We have been a Camino family on and off since the start. I will miss her greatly but it’s definitely not the last time we will see each other. 

Right, signing off because I’m bloody knackered.

BUEN CAMINO