The albergue had a “get out of the building you lazy gits” time of 8am. This meant that, rain or shine, we would be trotting our way to the next destination at 8:01. 

I then remembered the volunteers are Spanish and no one showed up until 8:30 anyway. 

Ah well, it wasn’t a bad idea to get going. 

The route split in to two then reconverged further along the way. One option was a scenic route that was 1.8k longer and the other was a road walk down a highway. 

It was pitch black so we decided the scenic route would look the same as the road walk anyway. We started walking and soon came to a pilgrim that had turned round and was walking back towards us. She explained it turned into a highway and there were no lights. 

We reassessed and decided that walking into oncoming traffic in the dark while the roads were wet probably wasn’t our best idea.

We turned round and hit the scenic route. I’m so glad we did as it really was quite pretty. The sun didn’t take long to show itself and as the forest around us got slowly brighter it made for some really lovely shots.

On the route was, what looked like, an abandoned shack but maybe it was an emergency shelter for stupid pilgrims who decide to walk when it’s nearly November?

It was constructed of huge granite blocks with stone tables inside and a little fireplace in the corner. Being the responsible pilgrims we are we immediately decided to try to start a fire. It didn’t turn out that well. It’s quite difficult to start a fire with wet logs, no paper and a lighter that’s on its last legs. 

After being annoyed at myself for not being able to make a fire we carried on. 

Cue some more pretty forest photos and stuff.

I actually took a photo of either side of the track we were walking on. Now one side has had human intervention and the other side hasn’t. Can you guess which one is the natural one?

The day had started getting a bit miserable and the time for coffee and beer and food and all the other lovely things was upon us. Unfortunately there was naff all for about 4km so we grit our teeth and soldiered on. About 2km in we stumbled across some dude who was giving out wax stamps for the pilgrim passports. I see we stumbled upon it but I’m pretty sure Jenny’s Spidey stamp sense had started about 300m before.

Anyway, we nipped in to say hello and it turned out the dude was a bit of an artist. He had carved some really great stuff out of stone. The detail was rather impressive. He let us look around his home and I was impressed. I wouldn’t know where to even start carving a stone!

We managed to find somewhere to get some food and drink. About 3 other pilgrims we had chatted to turned up and we all sat down for an hour out of the rain eating, drinking and generally having a good time. 

Sārka had also caught up with us and we three decided to stay at an albergue reasonably close by that had a restaurant attached to it. 

We got there, checked in and all fell asleep. For some reason the rain and the wind really take it out of you. I find myself more tired and much hungrier than I have been the past few weeks. 

Fortunately the albergue restaurant thing had a pilgrim menu so myself, Jenny and sãrka had a really decent meal then hit the sack ready for a massive 10km the next day.

We awoke to a Spanish dude turning the light on. After I had throttled him in my imagination I got up and went for a coffee and a ciggy while the two girls managed to sleep through the whole pilgrim packing process. It was actually quite impressive. 

Sàrka was taking her sweet time so I said to Jenny that I was going to go and have a solo wander with my headphones in and I’d wait for them further down the road. 

I immediately had to swerve a billion cows going for a jog down the main road through the village. One of them done a wee that would rival a fireman’s hose. 

The walk was quite fun initially. Niceish weather and some cool terrain to walk over. It quickly took a turn though. Sideways rain and strong wind is not that pleasant to walk through. Sàrka had 25km of it!! 

She messaged in the evening saying she had made it which is always nice to hear. I will miss her. She was good fun.

For the final 500m a preacher called Steve had walked with me. He was telling me some God stories and a few bits and pieces about Jesus and his mates Mark and John. 

As we were about to separate he asked if he could say a little prayer for me. He asked God to look out for me and help with some of my decisions in life and he also said I was a decent bloke too so that was nice to hear. 

Now I’m not a religious person but it was nice of him to take some time and give me a little blessing for the remainder of my trip.

If I injure myself now I’m going to blame Steve. 

We checked in to the albergue. Soggy, cold, hungry and a bit pissed off with it all. 

10 minutes later the fire was alight, the host has made us food and I had a beer in my hand.

It’s impressive how quickly your mood can change!

The dinner was lovely. Jenny forgot to tell them she was a vegetarian so I got all the meat out of the fish soup they made us. A win for me!! 

I felt bad for Jenny but then the lady came out with a load of cheese for her. 

A nice bottle of red and some decent grub and there are now two very happy pilgrims! 

Apparently it gets super busy with other pilgrims stinking up the place a couple of towns away. A bunch of the routes converge and it becomes a free for all. I think the rules are that the strongest pilgrim wins.

Anyway, I will be making the most of the peace and quiet tomorrow because it’s a luxury I am not going to have for the last 50km.

Oh well, it’s been a good 790km so far.

BUEN CAMINO